Just need to weld the steering shaft to the pitman arm and weld a steering wheel bracket on and get a steering wheel.

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I got the Steering done and mounted a seat Cushion. I am going to get a jack shaft. Specs Engine- 6.5HP PowerFist Engine – 9.99 Clutch- Comet Clutch 11 # 40-41 I think Wheels- Ride on Lawn Mower Wheels. Frame- ATV shipping crates bolted together, one weld so far. Steering Wheel- GT Grant Bush Bar- Yamaha Grizzly More to be done! Thanks for watching!

Brief description of our go-kart project’s front suspension design. This has been designed and fabricated from scratch with only the rose-joints as a bought component. Material is mostly 20mm RHS with the kingpin and stub axle turned from a solid steel 25mm round bar. Bushes are Delrin over a steel crush tube. The aluminium wheelhub is a special design which I’ll cover in another video. Geometry is conventional double-wishbone with A-frame upper and straight lower arms. KPI is 14° with 10° castor. Camber is adjustable but will probably run at 0°. Designed for a 12″ (300mm) x 2.5″ (63mm) alloy scooter wheel.

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Here is Part 2 of my go-kart build, I have gotten alot done since my 1st video. There are NO welds on the go-kart when i made this video but there will be like 1 or 2 welds in the future. Gear Ratios- 11:35 ( I know its really not right) Engine- 6.5HP Gasoline 4-stroke PowerFist 196cc Engine (Honda Clone) Plans- I built it as i went along Wheels- Off a riding Lawnmower (I dont not know the size) Steering wheel- GT Grant 80s after market steering wheel (AWESOME) Why- Go-karts are awesome!

Here is the First Part of my Go-Kart build. To see the engine running right out of the box, check my other videos. If you have anything ideas or things i should know about building a Go-Kart please leave a comment.

Brief description of our go-kart project’s steering mechanism. This evolved from early sketches featuring steel cable-operation directly acting on the steering arms. This approach would probably have worked but would have interfered with suspension motion adversely and be prone to cable stretch and hence steering slop. The final design retains a remnant of cable operation in the ‘capstan and bowstring’ mechanism but fully isolates the steering motion from the suspension motion. The steering column directly operates the capstan around which the bowstring cable is wound three turns and anchored in the centre to avoid slip. The carriage runs on a pair of highly polished steel rods recycled from a printer. Balljoints connect the steering tie rods to the steering arms. The advantage of this design is low cost and home-buildability when compared with a rack-and-pinion which is an expensive item to buy at this sort of size – much larger and much smaller ones are readily available. Compared with a Pitman arm type arrangement this gives a larger available steering lock angle and lower steering ratio – the result is light and controllable steering without (we hope) the twitchiness of some home-built go-kart mechanisms. The steering geometry here implements full Ackermann and minimises bump-steer due to the maximal length tie-rod arms.

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